FIX YORE HOUSE with attitude - PAIDRA DELAYNO

HAND TOOLS

2009-12-28T21:22:00.000-08:00

A hand tool is a device designed to carry out a particular function that does not require a motor but is powered entirely by the person that uses it. Many motorized tools make the job easier but you can always count on your hand tools to get it done. What happens when you have no electricity? What good will your electric saw or drill be to you?

You say you have battery powered tools? Every time you pull the trigger on that drill you are one step closer to being without its services. A hand drill can be purchased for a reasonable price and it never hurts to have it for a back-up. You should count on investing in a quality set of hand tools that will come in handy in numerous situations.

In general tools can be classified as:. hammers, mauls, sledges, screwdriver and bit, chopping tools, saws, chisels, planes, files and rasps, pry bars, brush-cutting tools and miscellaneous cutting tools.

Perhaps the most common and well-known of the hand tools is the hammer, which is designed to drive nails, break apart materials, or pry out nails or boards. It is a versatile tool that can accomplish many tasks, but be sure to invest in the right one. Hammers come in different lengths, which are intended for different jobs. Whatever hammer you decide on, be sure it is a well-built one-piece hammer or a two-piece hammer with the head solidly fixed to the handle.

You want versatility, the most bang for your buck. This would be a sixteen ounce, straight claw hammer with a wood or fiberglass handle. Heavy enough to actually drive a nail, light enough to keep you from test driving the new words you've heard lately.. Some of the new metal handle hammers are pretty nice and do have their advantages, such as not breaking when pulling nails. Be sure to look for the made in China symbol and put that one back.

The day finally surfaces when a project around the house requires a hammer. First we look through our junk to see if there isn't something, anything, we can use instead of going to the store. Not that we mind shopping, but just not for hammers.

How many of you have dealt with a sales person who speaks down to you? Well, I have a news bulletin. The guy who makes us feel that way knows almost as little as we do about hardware. Last week he worked in the warehouse, lugging freight. Another thing I realize is that most women could care less if a hammer is the right one as long as they get what they want out of it. This is fine if you feel that way. The women I'm speaking to here are the ones who are serious about having a set of tools worthy of the crafts-person they wish to become. Enough said about that.

With a little luck, the salesperson is not in the department when we start the great hunt. Let's say you're going to Home Depot for the simple reason that they are everywhere. (not literally, but close) We look overhead and find the sign for tools. As confidently as possible, we head on down the isle until we find the hammer rack. All of a sudden we are stepping into an ancient Egyptian tomb and looking at an entire wall of Hieroglyphics.

Hammers of all sizes and shaped are staring back at us. 'Oh da__,' we say, 'Why couldn't there be only one to choose from?' Well, gather around and I will attempt to explain what all these hammers do so that you can make an intelligent decision about your purchase. I'll start out by listing most of the styles of hammers so you can see the difference in them.

1.Framing hammer
2.Finish hammer (sometimes referred to as a claw hammer)
3.Roofing ax
4.Sheetrock ax
5.Mason's ax
6.Ball Peen

Framing hammer: The purpose of a framing hammer is to do exactly what the name says, build the wall. For anybody who didn't know, building a wall is referred to as framing it. Framing hammers come in several sizes. They start at 20 ounce and get heavier from there. In my tool collection I have a 32 ounce framing hammer and let me tell you, I don't mind one bit when they say it's a man's hammer.

The head of a framing hammer is referred to as a waffle head. One look at it and you'll see why. The reason for this is to insure that the hammer makes good contact with the nail. A good framer hits the nail twice. Once to set it and the second time to drive it home. Tap, bang, tap, bang – by the hour for the entire day. Most framers prefer a wooden handle, probably a Vaughn hammer or one of equal quality. The length of a good 20 ounce hammer is 16 inches, the same as the distance between two studs in a wall.

Finish hammer: Finish hammers come in many different weights, from little brad hammers to 20 oz. The head is smooth to prevent damage to the project. Here's a tip when driving a finish nail. Give the nail a tap to set it and then put a garden hose washer around it. The washer helps to protect the wood in case your hammer does an oops.

When the nail gets to the place where the washer impedes it from going any further, finish setting it with a nail punch. You should buy a set of 3 punches to insure that you have the correct size for the nail you are using. Here's another tip. When pulling a nail with your hammer, shove the claw end tightly around the nail to be pulled and roll the hammer sideways. The nail will ease itself out of the wood and not break your hammer handle in the process.

The other four hammers listed are job specific. The sheetrock ax has a hatchet thing on one end of the head and a round modest waffle head on the other. It's round in order to make a nice dimple in the sheet rock when the nail is hammered in.

The roofer's ax is more aggressive appearing then the sheetrock ax. It also has a adjustable guage thing on the head. This is used to measure width of the shingle allowed to show as the roofer works his way on the roof, course after course.

The mason's ax is also an aggressive tool hardly ever required by a homeowner, unless of course, you are planning to do some brick or rock work at your house. The ball peen hammer is used in metal work, also something most home owners don't involve themselves with.

The job is always made easier by having the right tool. Do not cheap skate on your tools and they will last you for years to come. Usually, if you are selective in your purchase, they will last for the rest of your life. One last tip, NEVER hit metal objects (other then nails) with a waffle head hammer. The little waffles could chip off and go flying into the operator's eye.

Feel free to stop by my fiction authors blog at
http://paidraspen.blogspot.com
or my back to the land blog at
http://back-to-the-land-again.blogspot.com

OVERVIEW OF BUILDING AN ADDITION TO YOUR HOUSE

2008-09-22T09:02:00.000-07:00

SAFETY FIRST AROUND POWER TOOLS!!!!

2008-09-22T08:53:00.001-07:00

ATTITUDE

2008-09-17T21:36:00.000-07:00

WOODSHOP SAFETY

2008-09-15T00:17:00.001-07:00

WOMEN IN NONTRADITIONAL JOBS

2008-09-14T23:37:00.000-07:00

Tool Brands

2007-10-28T22:06:00.000-07:00

The next article appearing on this blog is written by a man who likes Royobi tools. I disagree with him and don't really care for that brand. They are cheap, I'll give them that but don't forget, in tools you get what you pay for.

Power Tools - Guest Author

2007-10-28T22:02:00.000-07:00

The Power Tools You Need
By Linden A. Walhard

There is always something to fix or put back together when you own a home. Especially if you are a brand new home owner, you may not have all of the tools around the house that you may need for these kinds of job. Here is a list of tools that you cannot live without if you are a homeowner. You will need them from the easiest job of just putting together the outdoor furniture to doing a complete remodel of the house, so take this list with you when you go to the home improvement center or hardware store.

This is a short list, just five power tools, but they will make your life easier now that you are a homeowner. All of the everyday jobs that a homeowner must do can be done with just these tools.

1. Cordless screwdriver. A cordless screwdriver is necessary for all of the small jobs you will encounter. If you want to hang a picture, you can pre-drill a hole in the wall to make that job easier. If you have to put together furniture or toys, this screwdriver will make those jobs easier. You can even use the reversible switch and unscrew anything you put in wrong!

2. Cordless drill. You need a cordless drill for drilling a lot of holes or very large holes. Also, if you don't want to switch the screws when you are using a cordless screwdriver, you can use the drill. They can be used to make pivot holes for screws. Usually a homeowner will use a 3/8 inch bit. MOre than that is considered commercial size.

3. Corded Drill. A cordless drill does not have a lot of power, so it is not good if you are working on a large project or working with heavy material. You can't use it just anywhere because of the cord, but you can add extension cords.

4. Power circular saw. Once you have used a hand saw a few times, you will appreciate haveing a power saw. They are more efficient in cutting large pieces of wood such as 2X4s, or sheets of lumber. A power circular saw can cut a depth of up to 3 inch board. If you are going to do any major remodeling, you must have a power circular saw.

5. Jig saw. The jig saw cuts tight cuts. Whenever you have intricate work, such as cutting around edges where a close fit is necessary, you will need a jig saw.

If you have these cordless tools, you will find that you can do just about any job around the house. Owning a home is a joy, but if it is easier to work around the home, you will get even more pleasure from it. Get these five essential tools, and you will be ready for anything that may pop up around the house.

The scriptwriter Linden Walhard is especially interested in questions about power tools. Through his publications, he established his deep knowledge on things relating to ryobi cordless tools and power tools.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Linden_A._Walhard

Guest Author - Tom Knapp

2007-08-31T21:52:00.001-07:00

The knife was one of the first tools used by early humans, and in the past thousands of years its use and its design have evolved considerably. Today there are several different kinds of knives, made from a variety of materials, and used as tools, for cooking and other purposes. Let’s take a look at the main types of knives that are presently available.

Carbon Steel

Carbon Steel has been used in the making of blades for many years. Knives made from carbon steel are tough and take a better edge with little effort. However, carbon steel blades discolor when they come in contact with foods that are high in acid, such as tomatoes and citrus fruit and the blades must be treated with care to avoid discoloration and rusting. If you are using carbon steel knives you should wash and dry them thoroughly after use. Some box cutter and utility knife blades are made from carbon steel.

Stainless Steel

Unlike carbon steel, stainless steel blades do not discolor or rust, however, they are not hard enough to maintain the best edge. Some utility knives and box cutter blades are made from stainless steel.

High Carbon Stainless Steel

Knives made from high carbon stainless steel offer a combination of the best attributes of carbon steel and stainless steel blades. They have the toughness and ability to hold an edge and, like stainless steel blades, they do not discolor when coming in contact with acidic foods.

Titanium

Titanium blades are made from a mold of titanium and carbides. When compared to steel, titanium is lighter, more wear resistant, and holds its edge longer. The titanium blade is more flexible than steel, they work best for tasks such as boning and filleting.

Ceramic

Ceramic blades are made of zirconium oxide and aluminum oxide. Although they are much more delicate than steel knives, they tend to hold their edge up to 10 times longer. However, once the blades have dulled, they must be sharpened by a professional.

Plastic

Plastic knife blades are primarily used in order to prevent vegetables and other edible items from becoming discolored from the blade of a knife. Plastic blades are not very sharp and require some force when cutting.

Hollow Ground

Hollow ground knife blades are manufactured with a process that fuses two separate pieces of metal together. After the pieces are fused, a beveled blade edge is created. Although these blades often have very sharp edges, the blade lacks the balance and longevity of a taper ground blade. This type of blade is most often found on knives that are used less frequently.

Taper Ground

Taper ground knives are manufactured with a single sheet of metal and are ground so that they taper smoothly from the spine to the cutting edge. This type of blade can be found on knives that are used frequently.

There you have it. These are the most common types of knives that are commonly available. The next time you buy a knife think about how you will use the knife and then choose one constructed from the materials that best match your purpose.

Tom Knapp is a professional journalist writing for Safecutters Inc., the manufacturer of the Klever Kutter, one of the safest packaging cutting utility knives available. It virtually eliminates the risk of workplace injuries, while the permanently shielded blade protects packaged products. Klever Kutter has been approved by the Department of Homeland Security for safe air transport. For more information about Klever Kutter and other Safecutters products, visit http://www.safecutters.com

Guardian is a diversified global manufacturing company headquartered in Auburn Hills, Michigan, with leading positions in float glass, fabricated glass products, fiberglass insulation and other building materials for commercial, residential and automotive markets.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Tom_Knapp

Guest Author - Linda Moore

2007-08-30T21:57:00.000-07:00

Duct tape is perhaps the most versatile tool found in homes today. This popular tape was first made in 1942 for the military by Johnson and Johnson. The first purpose of duct tape was to keep ammunition cases free of moisture during WWII, and because of its water proof properties it was referred to as "duck tape."

The tapes popularity increased as military personnel started to discover that it was useful to fix aircraft, guns, even jeeps when more conventional tools were not available. When the war was over, duct tape found a new, permanent place in American society when it was utilized in by the building industry to attach heating and cooling ductwork.

Duct tape soon evolved into a rainbow of shrink wrapped rolls stacked on store shelves. Consumers took notice and soon colored duct tape was a big seller, making this one of the mostly common household tools. The tape now is found in colors such as the traditional grey, red, blue, day glow, pink and even camo for hunters.

A little known fact regarding duct tape is that, even though you can rip it with just your fingers, it is amazingly strong. For example, if you double it, duct tape can pull a car up to 2,000 pounds out of a ditch.

Duct tape has evolved into something more than a utility item in the past several years. People have begun to discover its other uses. Duct tape has become a shining star in the crafting world. The strength and flexibility, variety of color choices and wide availability of colored duct tape lends itself well to crafts such as duct tape wallets, roses, hats, duct tape purses even prom dresses. These items tend to go beyond your average craft and enter the realm of art, the pictures that have been taken of these items, are amazing, although surely they do not do the duct tape art justice. If you are interested, a quick search online will yield well written instructions to complete these projects and more.

In case the normal uses of duct tape and the crafting possibilities are not enough, duct tape is also known to help cure common warts. In fact, in a study, the patients treated with duct tape for their warts had an 85% cure rate, while the people treated with the traditional method had a 60% cure rate. Therefore, the next time you have a problematic wart, it might be wise to skip the doctors’ office and related fees and grab your purple or yellow duct tape to cure it. Remember to change the tape often, approximately once a day for best results.

Duct tape is without a doubt one of the most useful items in our homes today, in fact G. Weilacher may have summed up the importance of duct tape the best, "One only needs two tools in life: WD-40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop."

Linda Moore writes on a variety of subjects including home ownership, family matters, personal enrichment, duct tape uses and leatherman tool

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Linda_Moore

Painting - Guest Author - Stephanie Tyree

2007-08-29T21:18:00.000-07:00

PROFESSIONAL NOTE: To achieve the best results from your interior paint project, apply the primer and base coat with good quality paint, brushes, rollers and application tools. You will be surprised how your interior paint project will be effortless in helping you to apply a thicker, more uniform coat of paint for a better-looking, longer-lasting paint job.

Gather Materials and Supplies:
Ladder
Plastic water bucket
Gloves
Rags
TSP (optional for cleaning oil and Grime)
liquid soap
Screwdriver
Drop cloths (plastic and cloth) or sheets
Blue painter's tape (with and without paper attached)
Old paintbrushes or china bristle brushes for dusting
Spackling compound
5-in-1 tool or wide blade
Latex caulk
220-grit sandpaper

Latex primer
Latex paint, eggshell or satin sheen
Plastic 2 gallon Paint Bucket
Paint tray, paint roller and 3/8" roller cover
2” – 3” Quality nylon/polyester brush

Paint Basics

Acrylic Paint?
Latex paints are not all the same. Now the term "latex" includes all water-based paints. High-performance interior paints are 100% acrylic; they have better color retention, better adhesion and, in the case of faux finishing the better choice for an undercoat than vinyl-acrylics.

Not to mention, manufacturers consider 100% acrylics to be their best products.

Which Paint for this room? How will the room be used?

In functional, high traffic rooms such as kitchens, bathrooms and bedrooms, you want durability and easy maintenance first. In more decorative and romantic rooms, such as living rooms, master bedrooms and dining rooms, appearance is often the key factor. In a child's room, safety is critical."

Here is Final advice on paint quality.
When you buy paint, go for the reputable brands. Suit your choices to the project, but at the same time, “don't waste your time” or your money on low-quality paint. There are significant differences between cheap and quality paints, particularly in characteristics such as hiding and wash ability. Obviously, one-coat hiding is a major labor saver and well worth paying a premium to get the results.

Be sure not to forget to check the warrantee on the label—this gives you a fair measure of the differences between quality levels of various paints. Last but not least, you are also likely to find a wider variety in color choices with your quality paint lines.

Estimating PAINT COVERAGE

How do you determine the amount of paint you will need for a particular room? The first step is to add the width of all walls in the room together. Multiply this sum by the height of one wall from floor to ceiling (or, the circumference of the room times the ceiling height). If you have a number of windows and doors, subtract the square footage of those openings. This final number will give you the exact area of wall space you will paint.

A flat surface usually requires one gallon for every 400 square feet (the product label will show the coverage). Take into account the number of coats you will need to do the job right and this depends on the color and the quality of the paint. Remember, it's always a good idea to have a little leftover paint for future touch-ups. Once you've properly prepped your walls, the actual painting is easy.

Follow these steps in order, and don't skip any of them. Wait until the first coat dries before deciding whether you need a second one.

Steps To professionally Painted Walls:

CLEAR THE ROOM

STEP ONE: When transforming the walls in your home, start by removing any furniture or obstructions from the room. Cover the floors and any remaining furnishings in the middle of the room, cover with drop cloths or plastic sheets. Next remove outlet covers, nails, and screws. Tape the screws to the outlet cover and store in separately marked plastic bags, for easy re-installation. Then tape over the outlets and light switches to prevent paint from getting on electric outlets and switches.

FIX THE WALL IMPERFECTIONS

STEP TWO: Scrape off flaking paint, repair holes and cracks with spackle with a wide blade or five-in-one tool. Feather back rough paint edges by sanding. Always fill the imperfection flush with the surface even if it means having to refill 2-3 times due to shrinkage. It is much easier to refill than to sand back too much spackling. After the spackle dries, finish by lightly sanding with a medium (220 grit sandpaper), dust off surface and then prime each repaired area with small roller. Re-caulk any spaces you find where countertops, baseboards and moldings meet the wall.

NOTE: Use protective face mask while sanding.

NOTE: If you are repainting a glossy surface, be sure to sand it so that the new paint will adhere better.
CLEAN THE ROOM

STEP THREE: Use an old paintbrush or china bristle brush to dust baseboards, trim and crown molding before taping them off (use painter's tape to protect the baseboards and moldings). Remove all dust from surfaces using a soft cloth or use a soft bristle broom to brush down new plasterboard. Paint doesn't stick to dirty walls so clean them with soap and water (or TSP and water), then rinse with clean water, changing water regularly.

NOTE: Wear rubber gloves, protective clothing and protective eye-wear.

TAPING

STEP FOUR: Use low adhesive blue painters to tape trim around ceiling, baseboards, windows and door frames. (If you do not have ceiling trim or crown molding, you must use safe release tape on bare ceiling). Tape over phone jacks, thermostats, and moldings. Remove tape immediately after painting, before the wall dries, so you don't peel off any paint with it.

PRIMING THE WALLS

STEP FIVE: If your walls are bare sheetrock or previously wallpapered surface, then you should use the recommended primer for that type of surface. Existing semi-gloss or gloss paints should be lightly sanded to a duller finish, and then proper primer for that surface. If the walls have not been painted in five years or longer a primer sealer should also be applied.

NOTE: Always work in areas from the top to bottom. Paint Ceiling first, then walls, then the trim or moldings. Always brush the edges (cutting in) first prior to rolling. When cutting in make sure you feather out the edges.
NOTE: When you begin start from a corner left to right, or right to left, according to the most comfortable starting point for you. With a pole attached to the end of the Roller, start from the center of the surface and roll the paint from the center towards the top and bottom of the wall. Roll the wall much like you would vacuum carpet, this will give you the smoothest wall. To avoid a patchy wall finish, make sure you finish the complete coat before walking away to avoid a patchy finish.

BASE COAT THE WALLS

CUTTING IN TECHNIQUE

STEP SIX: Thoroughly stir your paint with a stir stick. Then, pour the paint into a larger 2-gallon bucket for easier handling. Make sure you pour no higher than 1/3 full in your new paint container. With a 2" wide (or angle) brush, load by dipping 1/3 of the bristle length into the paint. You can remove excess paint from the brush by tapping the bristles against the inside of the bucket. Starting from the top corner of the wall, cut in approximately 3 inches around the top of the wall where the wall meets the ceiling and cut in the bottom of the wall where the wall meets the baseboard. Cut in the corners of the wall and around all window and door trim while always working from the non- paint area to the previously painted areas, smooth out the cut in by lightly brushing the tip of the bristles (tipping off) over the newly painted area, creating a feathered edge. Repeat steps until the perimeter of the walls are complete.

ROLLING THE WALL:

STEP SEVEN: You have the choice of pouring the paint into a paint tray or a 5-gallon bucket. Place an appropriate nap roller onto a roller frame. Attach an extension pole onto the roller frame. Dip roller cover completely into paint covering the entire nap area. When using a 5-gallon bucket, pour no higher than 1/3 full and use a bucket grid to offload the excess paint and to evenly distribute the paint onto the roller. When using a paint tray, offload the excess paint by rolling onto the ribbed section of the paint tray Starting at the top corner of the wall, place the evenly loaded roller approximately 3-4" away from the cut in area. Working in a 3' x 3' area, roll a "W" onto the wall.

Continue rolling from the top edge of the wall to the bottom cut in area. Back roll through the completed area prior to reloading the roller, creating a smooth uniform finish. Reload the roller as necessary. Continue applying the paint, each time starting with the "W" technique 3-4" away from the last section completed. Working from the top section of the wall and working down the wall. Always, back roll the width of the roller being used into the last section completed. Continue until your wall is completely covered.

NOTE: Paint the trim last. When the walls are completely dry, paint or touch up the moldings, the door and window frames with a two-inch angled brush.

FINISHED DEAR? CLEAN UP AFTER PAINTING

1. Carefully remove all tape from hinges, doorknobs, light switches, and trim.

2. Remove drop cloth coverings from floors, furniture and light fixtures.

NOTE: It is best to score taped areas where the tape meets the painted surface with a utility knife, to help prevent peeling when the tape is removed.

NOTE: Cloth Drop cloths should be taken outside to remove dust and debris, then folded and stored for future use. Place all disposable coverings and loose debris into the appropriate trash can.

3. Re-attach all switch plates, and outlet covers.

4. Vacuum, mop or clean the floor where coverings were removed.

5. Re-hang items to the wall such as pictures and mirrors.

6. Move furniture and rug back to its original position.

7. Replace all valuables that were removed from tabletops and cabinets.

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PAINT SHEEN

The difference between paint sheens. What’s in a name?

Once you choose color for your paint project, you have one more decision to make: the paint sheen! The names are: flat, eggshell, pearl, satin, semi-gloss and gloss. What does this all mean? The paint sheen refers to the gloss level or the degree of light reflected from the surface once the paint has dried. Each company has slight variations.

It is obvious to tell the difference between a flat and a high-gloss, but it's the levels in between, when and how we use each sheen that can get confusing to all of us. So, here we have listed the key factors in choosing a paint finish.

The glossier a finish, the more durable and washable it tends to be. Flat paint is great at hiding irregularities and surface imperfections. Pearl and eggshell paints are a compromise; they partially hide imperfections and are more washable than flat paints.

For painting interiors, the best choices are often flat paint for ceilings, eggshell and satin for walls and semi-gloss or gloss on doors and trim. The most popular paint sheen is satin, a good choice because it's not too shiny but cleans easier than flat and a perfect base for popular faux finishing techniques.

FLAT

Durability of Flat Paint: If you have children or pets, this paint sheen isn't the best choice for walls as it tends to show dirt and scuff marks easily. This sheen is not an easy paint to keep clean.

Where to Use Flat Paint: are great choice for areas with dents, dings and rough surface texture. This sheen is perfect for surfaces that do not have a lot of contact with human hands, such as ceilings.

Comments on Flat Paint: Although this sheen hides surface imperfections, stain removal is difficult. Use this sheen for a uniform, non-reflecting appearance.

EGGSHELL

Durability of Eggshell Paint: More durable and washable than most flat paints, but not as durable as Satin or Semi-gloss. Where to Use Eggshell Paint: are great choice for wall surfaces in foyers, hallways, and Dining rooms. You can clean this paint sheen. Eggshell paints reflect more light than flat, but only slightly. The best way to describe paint is the reflective qualities of this sheen are similar to that of a real eggshell.

Comments on Eggshell Paint: This sheen resists stains better than flat paint and gives a more lustrous appearance offering a soft glow that warms up any room

SATIN

Durability of Satin Paint: are durable enough to stand up to most dirt, cleaning and are great for high traffic or food preparation areas.

Where to Use Satin Paint: are typically used for kitchens, bathrooms, hallways, kids' rooms and even some woodwork and trim.

Comments on Satin Paint: are not truly "shiny," but more like actual satin, in having subtle reflective qualities. This sheen adds just enough light to the walls to be called a slight "glow". Satin or semi-gloss finishes are easy to clean and are good for highlighting architectural details.

SEMI – GLOSS

Durability Of Semi-Gloss Paint: tend to be much more durable as they can be easily cleaned with most cleaning products and resist dirt and stains.

Where to Use Semi-Gloss Paint: are typically used for doors, cabinets, woodwork and trim. Many people find Semi-Gloss to be too shiny for walls though it works quite well on surfaces that are prone to get a lot of handprints

Comments on Semi-Gloss Paint: A semi-gloss reflects between 35 to 50 percent of the light that hits it. Which means it will have a much shinier appearance.

HIGH - GLOSS

Durability of High-Gloss Paint: While the high sheen allows for an easy surface to clean, any dents or dings in the paint will be very visible.

Where to Use High Gloss Paint: take extra precautions in choosing where you use this sheen. High Gloss should be limited to areas such as kitchen cabinets, banisters and railings, trim, furniture, door jambs, window sills and specialty uses. You wouldn't typically paint a wall with high-gloss paint because the reflective qualities create too much glare.

Comments on High Gloss Paint: High-Gloss reflects approximately 75%-80% of the light that hits it.

Stephanie Tyree
Unique Designs and Decorative Finishes
12034 Madison Drive
Atlanta, GA 30346
http://www.designershistoricalstencils.com

Chris Robertson - Guest Author

2007-08-28T18:28:00.000-07:00

There’s a running joke among my friends that the odd jobs never get done around the house because the man of the house can’t do it without the right power tools – which he hasn’t bought yet. Most women, on the other hand, have never met a nail that can’t be hammered in with the heel of a shoe or a screw that will stand up to a nail file. I’m no exception – my “tool box” consists of one Phillips head screwdriver, two flat screwdrivers and a ‘lady’s hammer’. More often than not, though, if I need to break into my computer’s case, I’ll send a kid out to the kitchen to bring me back the butter knife with the flower on the handle – it’s the only one with a narrow enough tip to get seated properly in those tiny screws. Even I have to admit, though, that there are some power tools that make impossible jobs easy as pie. In fact, there is one power tool that no woman should be without, especially if she’s living alone.

Essential Power Tool Survival Kit

Number one on the power tool hit parade is a cordless electric drill. If you’ve ever spent forty minutes trying to hang a towel bar or curtain rod, you’ll swoon over what an electric drill can do for you. Sure, given the time and the right nail file, you can get any screw into any wood – but why spend 20 minutes twisting your wrist when an electric drill with a screw bit can have that little sucker in place – tight and flush – in less than 30 seconds?

Electric drills are also the best – and sometimes only – way to get a screw that’s gone in wrong UN-stuck. Once you have a power drill in the house, you won’t know how you ever did all of the little fix-it jobs without one. It’s easily the handiest of all the power tools to own. The best drill to own? One with a 3/8” chuck and variable speeds, including reverse. It will set you back $25-$50 and be worth every single penny.

More than Power Tools – The essentials you need in your tool kit

1. A claw hammer. While I can drive any nail with the heel of a shoe, getting nails OUT is a different matter. A 16 ounce claw hammer is an absolute necessity for all sorts of jobs around the house.

2. A screwdriver set. There are some screws your trusty nail file just won’t handle. Pick up a good screwdriver set that includes flat heads, Phillips heads, star tips and a set of hex keys. If it also has a set of socket tips for unscrewing nuts, you’re in great shape.

3. Adjustable pliers, needle nose pliers and wire cutters.

4. Tape measure.

5. Duct tape.

6. An assortment of nails, brads and screws.

Tools aren’t just for men. They can make your life much easier – and save you money on repairs around the house that you never thought you could do yourself. If you haven’t made friends with the power tools aisle at your local hardware store, it’s about time you did.

Chris Robertson is an author of Majon International, one of the worlds MOST popular internet marketing companies on the web. Visit this Home Improvement Website and Majon's Home Improvement directory.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Chris_Robertson

THE INNER WORKINGS

2007-05-06T14:15:00.000-07:00

You'll be ecstatic to know we are about to unlock yet another of life's mysteries, truly considered by some to be one of the secrets of the universe. We'll dive right into a field few of us women know much about. Perhaps it's because we choose not to. Perhaps we enjoy being fleeced by our local plumbers. The subject in question? The toilet, of course. Exciting stuff, right?

It makes no difference what shape or color they come in, there are four basic varieties in most American homes. In this article we will be discussing the basics only, as there is more information to give then we have room for in this format. The first variety is the old tried and true model put out by American Standard, and several other companies.

The model I'm referring to is not a water saver but it does what it's supposed to do just about every time the lever is pulled. I will refer to this model as a 'standard' toilet. Next we have the water savers which use 1.6 gallons of water per flush. Of course, there are times when it takes 2 or 3 flushes to accomplish it's mission.

I suppose since some of the toilets in this category only require 1.6 gallons per flush, it can be considered a water saver. There are several variations to this style. Some use smaller tanks, while others go all out with pressure assisted units. Some of these toilets have warning labels for the user to step back before flushing lest they become entangled in the mechanism.

The third style is a wall hung unit. Some look exactly like floor mount models and others are molded one piece units which actually have different parts. The fourth style is entirely different from the other three. It has no tank but instead uses a Sloan Flush System. I call them gas station toilets because they are usually for commercial applications. On the back of the bowl is a chrome tube sticking up with a handle on the left side. We'll not get ourselves involved in that variety.

Just about now somebody will be asking, "What about the such and such style? You didn't mention that one." Well, to answer that, I can only say I'm not covering outhouses either, so there you go.

Remember girls, we are going to be plumbers. And, I might add, plumbers with an attitude. Before we get started plumbing, everybody should go through the wardrobe for a pair of low riding, hip hugging pants. (old slacks will do in a pinch) Free buffing is optional. Also, a short tee shirt will be appropriate. Bending over periodically, your back facing the bathroom door, will be required also. I didn't make up the rules, I just follow them.

I will be covering the 'standard' model. Some of the units in group 2 and 3 are simply variations of this one. Once you know the basics, you'll at least be able to ask intelligent questions of the young man in the plumbing department at your favorite home supply. This is no guarantee he'll know what you're talking about. Having pictures always helps.

The drain pipe comes up to the floor just below the toilet. Newer homes use ABS black plastic and older homes generally use cast iron pipe. A short distance away from the toilet is a smaller pipe which tee's off it (not to be confused with the short tee shirt you are wearing) and goes up through the wall to the roof. This second pipe is referred to as the vent pipe. Methane gas is able to escape up that pipe, along with allowing air into the system.

To demonstrate the air intake, fill a plastic 2 liter pop bottle with water and tip it over. Glurg, glurg, glurg, etc. You get the picture. Now, put a small hole in the bottom and watch how much easier it drains. Same thing as the vent pipe.

The pipe is held in place to the floor with a flange. A flange is simply a round ring with holes in it. the bottom side has a collar on it. In newer homes using ABS, the plastic drain pipe is glued to the collar. Case iron pipe is attached with lead. The flange is then screwed to the floor to secure it in place.

The flange is a two purpose part because the toilet also bolts to it from the top side. It has slots which accept special toilet floor bolts. If you look at the base of your bowl, you'll see one cap on each side. These are the bolts which secure it to the flange. The bolt itself is usually covered with a plastic dome thing.

The toilet itself is comprised of the bowl, the seat, and the tank. The bowl has no parts except what you see. The seat fastens onto the bowl 3/4 the way back on the top. The tank is actually simple. Water comes in and water goes out. The water enters the tank through the Toilet Fill Valve. A company by the name of Fluidmaster is one brand found on every plumbing supply shelf, at least in the Pacific Northwest.

Older model toilets may have a ballcock assembly which sounds technical but isn't really. A ballcock is no more than a fill valve and float assembly. You can identify it by a round sphere the size of a softball. When you remove the tank lid, you will see the sphere at the left hand side near the top of the tank, It is attached to the float assembly by means of a brass rod. These units are an older design and probably no longer in use. If you don't see it right off, you most likely have the newer Toilet Fill Valve.

The flapper holds the water in the tank and is raised (opened) by the lever, the chrome part you use to flush the toilet. The two parts are connected by a small chain. Flush the toilet with the tank open to get a better idea of how everything works. Now you have a working knowledge of your toilet. Look for my next article entitled, The Inner Workings, Part 2. (novel title, wouldn't you agree?) In that article we will start discussing problems and how to correct them.

Thanks for spending a few minutes with me.

THE INNER WORKINGS - PART 2

2007-05-06T14:12:00.000-07:00

Repairing a 'standard' toilet is not that complicated. I am assuming you have already read my previous article on the subject titled, "The Inner Workings." If not, please do so now. I'll wait for you before we begin.

In this article I will describe what the toilet is doing and then tell you how to fix it. Before starting, you will need a few tools in order to complete these tasks. You won't need anything which will break the bank, especially compared to the cost of a plumber.

The first tool you want to buy is a ten inch adjustable open end wrench. The kid in the hardware department will know it as a Crescent Wrench. No need to confuse him any more then he already is. Crescent is a brand name which has become the trade name. The same is true of Formica. Everybody talks about a Formica countertop when in fact they mean a plastic laminate (p-lam) countertop. There are several companies producing p-lam. Formica is the trade name. Do not purchase cheapie tools. They seem to fail you when you need them the most.

I'm not sure how involved you want to get in the toilet repair business. As we progress along, you will need several other tools but for now the Crescent Wrench will get the beginning home repair person by. I would advise buying a tool box in order to keep all your tools, as you buy them, handy. How involved you wish to get would determine the size of the box. When we progress in our repairs, I will let you know if a different tool is required.

If, for some reason, you wish to skip ahead and purchase several tools at the same time, I would advise:
1. 10 inch Crescent wrench
2. screw driver set to include two sizes of straight blade and two sizes of Phillips.
If you don't know what a Phillips screwdriver looks like, just ask for one and
check it out when the clerk hands it to you. The blade head looks like an X as
compared to a straight - blade.
3. spanner wrench (looks similar to Crescent wrench but larger. Is used for large
basket nuts, slip nuts, and a few other things.
4. 16 oz. finish hammer (Vaughn makes a nice hammer)
5. pliers (again, don't go cheapie)
6. channel locks (a type of pliers)

If your toilet keeps cycling, which means the water turns on and off every so often, the first thing to change is the flapper. Many companies have come up with flappers which are supposed to do amazing things. Vacuum the house almost. Skip right on over them and head straight to the soft black rubber cheapie model. You don't need any of these others.

You don't need to turn the water off to change a flapper. The water will stay running while you do the work but it won't take long. If you desire to have the water off, just about every toilet has a water shut off valve located on the wall on the left hand side of the toilet. You will see a water line coming out of the bottom of the tank (again left hand side). The little valve is chrome and shouldn't be hard to find.

At this time, I would like to interject something. ALL sink and toilet water valves should be turned off and on once a month. Nobody does it, but it should be done. If you have an emergency and a water feed (that's the line between the valve and the toilet or sink faucet) breaks, a well working valve will shut the water off immediately. A valve which hasn't been used in some time will have rust deposits in it and will not close all the way. Turning it off and on several times regularly will prevent rust build up.

When you handle an old flapper, nasty black stuff gets all over your hands, the toilet, the floor, your face and hair, and anywhere else it can. It's trained that way. Don't hesitate to wear some tight fitting gloves. The sort medical people use are perfect. Handle the old flapper carefully.

A hard fast rule to follow is to look real close at how things are mounted before you remove them. The flapper (usually) mounts one of two ways. Either it hangs on two little horns at the base of the filler tube, or it slides over the filler tube and pushed down as far as it can go. The filler tube is the rigid plastic or brass tube coming up the center of the tank.

Look closely at the new flapper. If your old one hangs on the horns, snip off the part on the new one which would slip over the tube. It's a round ring shaped thing which doesn't look like it belongs there for the horn variety. Be careful as you snip. Another wards, don't cut off the wrong part.

As we discussed, the flapper is activated by the toilet lever by means of a small chain. After you install the flapper, re-attach the chain to the lever. This part can be a little tricky. The chain is longer then needed so you have to adjust the length. Check out the old one before removing. If you leave too much chain, the flapper won't open. If you make it to short, the flapper won't seat correctly. The links of the chain fit over the little hook thing which slips through one of the holes on the toilet lever.

If your toilet water never stops running, either the flapper is not adjusted correctly or the Toilet Fill Valve is shot. The Toilet Fill Valve is the tower looking thing at the left hand side (inside) of the tank. At the top of the valve assembly there is a diaphragm which becomes clogged by debris in your water. There is no way to clean it except change the entire part.

You will need a new Toilet Fill Valve assembly, a new toilet water feed, and your 10 inch Crescent wrench. Before you purchase the water feed, you need to verify which size you have. The easiest way is to take the old one with you to the store.

Turn off the water at the valve behind the toilet. Flush the toilet. Open the flapper and scoop the remaining tank water down the drain hole. If you have a wet / dry shop vacuum, use it to evacuate the remaining water. If not, you can use rags on the base of the tank to absorb the remaining water.

Use your Crescent wrench to loosen the end of the water feed hooked up to the valve. There will be water still in the feed so put a rag on the floor beneath the valve. Next, open your wrench all the way and loosen the other end. You might have to lay on the floor to do this. Once you've done this a few times, you can just straddle the toilet and do everything standing up.

Once you have the feed off, look underneath where you just removed the feed. You will see another nut holding the Toilet Fill Valve in place. Remove that nut also. Remember, loosen a nut by turning the wrench counter clockwise. Loose - Left and Tight - Right. Also keep in mind you are doing these things upside down.

Before you remove the assembly, disconnect the little black tube which goes from the fill tube to the Fill Valve. It's easy to spot at no larger then a pencil. Take the water feed to the store with you because you need to know the length and the size end which attaches to the valve. Make sure the new unit is exactly the same size as the old. It should be either 3/8 inch or 1/2 inch, depending on what you have.

Install each of the parts the same way you removed them. If you purchase a flexible water feed, be sure not to over tighten the nut. Snug them with your wrench and then give them a little nudge. Make sure the nut holding the assembly in place is tight. The black washer goes on the bottom of the assembly inside the tank. This seals the unit when you tighten the nut beneath the tank.

Before you tighten the nut, look at the Fill Valve assembly from the top. Attach the new little black tube on to the assembly. (You'll see where) If the top of the unit were a clock, the tube should be exiting the assembly at two o'clock. Tighten the nut underneath the tank with the assembly at the two o'clock position.

There should be a part in the kit which clips on to the filler tube. It's an 'L' shaped piece. Clip it on to the filler tube. This piece directs water INTO the filler tube. The little black tube from the Fill Valve slips onto this part. The black tube will be longer then you need. Cut off the excess. I always leave a little slack but be sure not to have any kinks. Kinky is not good in this application.

Slowly turn the water back on. If you have any leaks, simply tighten whatever is leaking. If it's the water feed, only tighten until the leak stops and then just a pinch more. If you have no leaks, then the job is completed. I trust this article has helped you. I have tried to simplify everything so the beginner will understand what I am saying.

With the money you have saved, you will be able to purchase Loren Douglas' detective story entitled, "Verifiable Evidence." Check it out at:
http://www.booklocker.com/books/2812.html

Thank you for spending a few minutes with me. I will be continuing this series of articles. If you are interested in them, I would enjoy hearing from you at ddinpaidra@yahoo.com

NAILS, A GIRL'S BEST FRIEND

2007-05-06T14:09:00.000-07:00

One has not truly experienced life until visiting a pawn shop. It is a cultural experience worth the time. The thing I found most striking on my first visit was the number of wedding rings in the glass case which also served as a counter. I can only imagine the heartaches behind each one of them.
When I was in junior and senior high school, every summer was spent working with my father. He was a licensed general contractor who did smaller jobs in a metropolitan area. Sometime during the 8th grade, he made a ring for me out of a 6d finish nail. I still have it. No pawn shops - no bitter memories. Quite the opposite I might add.
Nails, for some foolish reason, have been considered part of a man's world. At least in the past. Now, things are changing. It's the wife who has the little red tool box out in the garage. The hammers, screw drivers, drills, etc. belong to her.
When we women go to the hardware department of our favorite store, we are victimized by some junior grade male, who worked in the candy department the week before. Now he's an expert on nails, screws, etc. Go figure!
A woman should have a basic idea of what she wants before going into the store. These things, after all, are not categorized as being secrets of the universe. Each nail serves a specific function - we just need to know what it is.
A nail, obviously, has two ends. The business end and the pointy end. What the business end looks like tells what it's used for. Nails come in a wide range of styles and sizes. The 'common' nail, which has the largest head and thickest shaft, is used for house framing and other such heavy projects. The thinner 'box' nail is used for lighter, but still bigger, projects.
The 'casing' nail, whose head is funnel shaped, is used for finish work where a slightly heavier nail is required. An example would be hanging doors. The head of a 'finish' nail is not much larger than the shaft. It is used for more delicate trim and shop projects.
Each nail is sized according to it's length. The unit of measure is called a 'penny' and is identified by a lower case 'd.' Some examples would be, a 2d (2 penny) nail is 1 inch long. A 6d (6 penny) is 2 inches long. On the longer side would be a 20d, which is 4 inches long. Brads are usually referred to by their actual length.
There are many job specific nails. Examples would be ring shank flooring nails, roofing nails, drywall nails and duplex head nails. Various coatings also determine usage's. Examples of these would be galvanized for exterior and vinyl coated 'sinkers' for easy driving when framing a building.
Be sure to purchase a good hammer. A nice 16 oz. finish hammer will serve well for general usage. The smooth head is made for finish work but still big enough for larger jobs in a pinch.
Pre-drilling the wood will eliminate splitting. At the very least, pre-drill for any nails near the end of the board. The hole should be slightly smaller than the nail. When doing finish work, if a small enough drill bit is not available, use on of the finish nails as a bit. This is pretty much a one shot deal as the pointy end will dull.
When banging a 16d sinker nail into a 2" x 4', for example, and splitting is a concern, (and not within a few inches of the end of the board) tap the pointy end to dullen it before driving it into the wood. I don't know why this works, but it helps with splitting. One does not need to know all the answers to make it work.

Building things can be a relaxing way to spend time. The material is purchased and then turned into something useful. There is an end to the project, which is more than many of us see at work.

Thank you for spending a few minutes with me.

INTRODUCTION

2007-05-06T13:56:00.000-07:00

We, as women, are so conditioned to seeing pictures showing a bunch of old codgers sitting around the wood stove at the hardware store that we never really invision ourselves as being the ones sitting there. And why not? We are just as capable to repair our homes as any guy. All we need is to be pointed in the right direction. Enter Paidra Delayno and FIX YOUR HOUSE. Obviously, home repair isn't for every woman just like there are lots of men out there who are worthless with tools. Actually, there are a lot who are worthless, with or without tools.

Thanks for visiting me here on the internet. In the articles I write, everything has to be just so. The article sites have their standards and if writers want their articles published, they must comply with the rules. Rules are good. If we didn't have them, things could get a little dicey. Who knows what variety of jerks we'd be subjected to. Here at FIX YOUR HOUSE's blog, you the reader will be able to pick up some tips on home repair and keep your attitude in tact at the same time.

My father was a home repair contractor for years in a large metro area. I worked many summers with him. He told me, "Paidra, you might not want to do this stuff for a living but it sure won't hurt to know how to take care of your own house." The man is right next to worthless with cars and computers but he knows houses. I've seen him bring back from the dead more then one house.

I work in the senior healthcare field. More specifically, in nursing homes. The toilets in nursing homes have a tendency to plug up more readily then residential homes. A wider variety of items goes down them then in your home. (except where there are little children - they are deadly. Throw the toy into the bowl and flush. Bye-bye toy) There is nothing more pathetic then seeing a female nurse's assistant standing there with a toilet plunger in her hand without a clue in the world what to do with it.

It is not my intention to teach anybody how to be a contractor. But, if you had a feather under your nose we'd both be tickled if I am able to show you how to avoid having to call one. I know how to do lots of stuff and am more then willing to share that information with you. I would enjoy having some feed back from you telling me what all you'd like to learn. E-mail me at: ddinpaidra@yahoo.com and let me know.

By now you are asking yourself, 'Why is she doing this?' The answer is simple. In my free time I market the fictional works of Loren Douglas, a newer fictional author on the horizon. I am his publisher and the name of my business is
DayDreamin' Stories. So far we have one book out as an e-book (soon to be released in print) and one book already in print.

The e-book is entitled, "ZOG." It's an outer space adventure with all the necessary elements. Fighting, Revenge, Time Travel, and Love. Guarday Zografos is the commander of a star ship. His woman's name is Shehailian and together they travel through time and space.

The print book is entitled, "VERIFIABLE EVIDENCE." Jack Cole is a private detective working a missing husband case. He's in his early fifties and carries a Glock .45 under his coat and it isn't a fashion statement. You can check out our book page at:
http://www.booklocker.com/books/2812.html The book is also available through Amazon.com.

If STRESS is something you deal with, especially at work, I recommend an e-book I compiled entitled, "Take Time Out For Me." It talks about the causes of STRESS and gives tips on how to overcome it. At 68 pages, it's packed with information. I am offering this book at NO CHARGE. You can check it out at:
http://www.squidoo.com/pollyklass/lessStress

I also have two short stories available from Loren Douglas, also FREE of charge. The first one is "The Devil Drives A Ferrari" Just when you think you are getting away with something, it falls apart. Isn't that the way it is?

The second short story is "The Barbeque." It's about some friends in an assisted living facility who clearly have to much time on their hands. Both of these stories are FREE of charge. You can have either of them in Pdf. by e-mailing me at:
ddinpaidra@yahoo.com
Please include the story name on the subject line.

Thank you for spending a few minutes with me. Be sure to let me know if I can help you with any of those home repair problems. I don't know everything but if I know how to fix your house, I'll get back to you. I'll get back to you even if I don't know the answer. Usually I can figure out where to find answers. Also, check out the other products I've mentioned.

As my friend MC in The Dalles, Oregon says, "Do your best and flex the rest."